ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment

Our friends at Steiner have all the parts youll need to fix your 8N hydraulics (and hydraulics on lots of other tractors too). Draining this water is easy to do. Raise the lift control lever and watch inside the cavity for oil leaking out from above in the area of the lift cylinder. LeRoy, my 1951 8n had not been started for 4 years. 8n position control adjustment discussion in the Ford 9N.draft links changes the deflection of the load control shaft PGJ Installation and Adjustment of Arch, Radius, Precipitation Rate and Nozzle with Video Some of the most frequently asked ones are listed at the bottom of this page An estimator to track the states of the UAV using the images. And the control rod must be perfectly straight. Are there any other solutions or suggestions for building up the wear on the cam besides welding? When I was plowing in the spring, when the arms were actually as low as it would go and the tractor would start to loose traction, a slight lift of the position lever would bring the plow up, but then I would have to push down on the draft control lever to get the plow to go higher. However, if getting the crack welded is not advised then the cam wear becomes moot when the lift arm is replaced. Any suggestions? Should the cam be smooth across its width?". "dateModified": "2015-06-09", I have a friend that has your jig (or, I should say purchased one). Dean Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see I was wondering if someone had bent it intentionally as a fix . It may not have been changed in many years. Make an honest estimate of the hours your tractor is used each week. This is usually a sign of a defective or sticking valve in the pump. Pull the dipstick and see where the level is. Identify My Tractor Movement of the hydraulic touch control lever away from the top of the quadrant should cause a simultaneous movement of the control valve arm away from the pump face. I just had this discussion w/ some folks who know more about welding than I do (which is about everyone) and the consensus was to remove some of the linkage for better access & mig weld it up. Press or drive the worn pin out. This means it works better as a year-round fluid. The louder the knock, the more wear your pump has on it. All N-Series Tractors - Ford-Ferguson 9N, 2N, and Ford 8N. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've done this with the seat removed, laying on the tractor, with an arm in each hole. Wrong? If you will get one of my 8N lift adjusting jig fixtures you can fix that lift. and if it looks like the pic, it will need to be repaired. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Right. 2009-10-02 166108. "@id": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/" Little heat and came off pretty easily. (7) Place the position control lever in the forward position. }, A short tutorial of hydraulic repair on a Ford 8N is available here. "userInteractionCount": 34 The rest of that space is air and metal. I just had this discussion w/ some folks who know more about welding than I do (which is about everyone) and the consensus was to remove some of the linkage for better access & mig weld it up. I.E., I can grab it and move it freely front to back. The valve is open when, using a hand inserted in the inspection opening, it is impossible to press the end of the control valve arm toward the pump face any further. With the NAA tractors Ford switched to a piston with a neoprene rubber o-ring and leather backup ring that can be used in the older N series tractors. Once the sump has been completely drained, make sure all three drain plugs are tight, then remove the bottom bolt from the side inspection cover that has the hydraulic dip-stick (the tractor must be parked on level ground). That adjustment would work on a lift that was prestine but it ain't! "image": { Look at the 8N link that goes down to the valve. The oil sump holds 5 gallons that is shared with the transmission and rear end of the tractor. Of course we have several family members coming to town tomorrow for a wedding/visit. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Linkage bent or adjustments not done correctly. You obviously know a lot more about welding than I do. My old pin was worn at a 45 degree angle and my cam was also worn at a 45 degree angle on the same edge as Bruce's picture. Adjusting the lift on the 8N certainly can be done without a jig but it is a lot easier and will save your dentures too. Thanks for te help. "@context":"https://schema.org", See the link below for information on my jig and instruction booklet on the 8N etc. You've done it, I haven't. This is a very common complaint and can almost always be attributed to a worn cam follower pin in the lift control linkage. To find this position, slightly loosen the four cap screws that support the quadrant. Epoxy? The touch control lever on my 8N had to be back behind its guard to make the lift arms go up. If no major leakage is noted, then check the pump pressure as outlined in the FO-4 manual. It is bent forward which I thought would help if anything, wrong? Mar 12, 2013. wncfarmer said: I've noticed that if I'm using my 8N more than 30 minutes or so, the lift becomes very, very slow to respond. I just replied to another response to my post, with a pic and a question. Go just a little too far and you will get several gallons of fluid in the face or running down your arm as you frantically try to thread the plug back in. Ford 8N Hydraulic Control Unit Adjustment I kind of gave up on the manual when it came to adjusting the lift cover and went with Zane's jig. I just replied to another response to my post, with a pic and a question. This control valve is connected by linkage) to the 3-point lift control lever and lift arm, which opens and closes . } If after installed I need further adjustment I'll use the split washer trick. Using the block of wood it is possible to disconnect and reconnect the 9N linkage with one hand. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see I was wondering if someone had bent it intentionally as a fix . Before replacing the top cover, take the time to inspect everything else in there for wear or other problems. If the knock is faint you can probably put off repairs for quite a while. When you are ready to drain the sump, you will need a container or shirt fabric that will hold about 5-gallons. If the oil looks milky, its got water in it. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Just beat it flat that's all you need to do Do you have the lift cover off if so wait for the jig you may not need the washer trickBut if you do you may have to get different thickness washers I have found you can move the draft plunger in to far by using a washer that's to thick All in said and done preform the first step adjust the draft control as Zane instructed the rest will fall into place Life will be good welding is your call welding is your call Welding is my call? Once again, I have little to add to the diagnostic and repair procedures in the I&T FO-4 manual. My cam is not worn anywhere close to the pic that Bruce posted. If those didn't do the trick I would then go back to removing the yoke, etc. Its also highly recommended that you change the hydraulic oil (gear oil) and keep it fresh and clean at all times. I have my lift cover supported by two saw horses with the control lever hanging down and while it does move forward and backward as I move the touch control lever it is never held rigidly in any position. John It must be straight. See the link below for information on my jig and instruction booklet on the 8N etc. I'll hold off on that and try without first. The crack has nothing to do with the lift performance at this time. These rings are still available, inexpensive and will work just fine, but a small amount of leakdown is normal and is to be expected with them. Thanks for te help. My guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard. The only things I can add is that it helps to have two people. While you are looking for leaks, you should see some indication that fluid is being sucked into the pump from the sump. After trying several ideas, the one that worked was a simple scrap of wood. Here is the pic. Do you see that as well or just my original post and your responses? To raise the plow pull touch control all the way up to raise the plow. Your email address will not be published. It is critical. If that link is bent, it needs to be straightened in a vise or press. Should the cam be smooth across its width? "interactionStatistic": { "image": { The fluid level in the transmission/hydraulic sump is way less than half full. Hold the hydraulic touch control lever at the top of the quadrant and gently tap the quadrant support plate forward or backward until both of the above requirements are fulfilled. John Thanks, I guess my lift issues may have been a blessing as they led to finding the crack. Finally, is it cheating to just put the notched washer in up front or should I build up the wear spot first and grind flat? You've done it, I haven't. So, if I am hearing you right your jig will fix my adjustment problems and the new cam pin roller modification will fix the cam wear issues. Serial Number Lookup I.E., I can grab it and move it freely front to back. The main reason we replace the fluid is the amount of water that eventually has mixed with it. Water will drain past the threads of the drain plugs, oil will not. As for the adjustment, I followed the instructions in the very old version of the I&T Shop manual I have. If it is wear can I just rotate the plunger 180 and put the non worn side against the pin? Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Linkage bent or adjustments not done correctly. Be sure to have a good welder do it. I'll let you know how I do. Find the worn pin. While I was working on the hydraulic system, I decided I would make a seperate short video detailing the hydraulic lift cover linkage adjustment Other possibilities are a defective relief valve or a ruptured oil tube that goes from the pump base to the top cover. Have a friend with a MIG welder but Zane advised 7018 stick welding, which I'm sure I could get done in town. Thought it might be an oil pressure issue. Simple. See the next question. { Good to know this is how it's supposed to work. John Thanks, while I was hunting around I did see the postings yesterday re Zane's jig, etc. Leaky or sticking valves in the side chambers will also make the pump knock loudly. Is the something else I should change to get the valve to completely open? Get to the tough questions and you go all shy on me? Of course we would recommend welding / brazing it or taking some where while it is apart . Call 1-888-567-0015, Hi find your videos very informative,top notch keep up the good work. Thus, I removed the hydraulic control unit to adjust it. Can't remember if bent toward the front, back, or sideways. Thanks. Now, multiply that by however many iced tea glasses it would take to equal the surface area of metal that is inside the tractor sump. Have a question about my 8N hydraulics. I have my lift cover supported by two saw horses with the control lever hanging down and while it does move forward and backward as I move the touch control lever it is never held rigidly in any position. Wear them enough and you forget you have them on. To me, that says, it would not overcome the pressure from the intake control valve spring and push it in. Simple to make from the hardware store. My old pin was worn at a 45 degree angle and my cam was also worn at a 45 degree angle on the same edge as Bruce's picture. I'm new to this forum stuff. That usually works ok if you cant spare the two bucks for a new one). If someone has substituted bolts where there should be pins, replace them with the correct hardware. Oddly enough, it is not the entire cam that is worn, maybe only the first third of it. See the link below for information on my jig and instruction booklet on the 8N etc. }. Get the adjusting jig from Zane. If you don't have tools to straighten what is bent, new parts are available. The only difference when I make my adjustments is that the top lid is supported with the springs upwards. "author": { It will only raise the plow with touch all the way up. A shop press is ideal, but creative use of a floor jack or bottle jack and heavy chain can straighten lots of parts. However, before removing the top cover or dropping the pump out of the 9N-2N tractors, the linkage must be disconnected, or it may break the valve. At this point, check the cam follower pin & the control rod. Same trouble as you were having. "@type":"DiscussionForumPosting", The shifter socket is also well above the surface of the transmission cover. Working the tractor gets the fluid very warm. I dropped the belly pump and removed the hydraulic top cover. https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS097-bolster-pivot-pin, no matter where i move the quad lever to it goes all way to top. Can't remember if bent toward the front, back, or sideways.

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